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Archive for the ‘ArtPlantae Books’ Category

During Monday’s Ask The Artist with Bruce Lyndon Cunningham, Bruce introduced us to his user-friendly guide to North American gymnosperms. While the guide created by Dr. Elray S. Nixon and Bruce can be used by beginning and experienced naturalists, what about the very youngest of naturalists? Are there books just for them? A teacher in the audience asked these questions on Monday.

Three books were shared with webinar participants.
Here are quick reviews of each…

Trees, Leaves, and Bark (Take-Along Guide)
Author: Diane L. Burns
Illustrator: Linda Garrow

An introduction to some of the trees growing in prairies, woodlands, swamps, and mountains. Each tree profile has information about how to find a tree, background into the tree’s lifespan and uses, and information about a tree’s leaves, bark, and seeds. The following activities are included in this book: Make a Leaf Mobile, Make a Pinecone Snackbar, Grow Your Own Tree, Make a Bark Rubbing.
Grade: 4-6, Age: 9-11

The Tree Book: For Kids and Their Grown-ups
Author: Gina Ingoglia
Illustrator: Gina Ingoglia

What goes on inside cones? Where does fruit come from? How do trees eat and drink? The answers to these questions can be found in this comprehensive resource created by Gina Ingoglia, the author of 80 childrens books, a landscape designer, and the vice president of the Brooklyn Botanic Garden Florilegium Society. After introducing young naturalists (and their grown-ups) to tree biology and tree identification, Ingoglia profiles 33 trees that are easily observed in neighborhoods, botanical gardens, or the local arboretum. Each tree profile is composed of background information about a tree, its growth, and the proper pronunciation of its scientific name. Like the plant names in our pocket dictionary, each species name is written out phonetically. Tree profiles also include a whole plant illustration and illustrations of leaves, flowers, fruit, leaf buds, needles, bark, and branches. If a characteristic is important to a tree’s identification, Ingoglia includes an illustration of this characteristic.
Grade: 3-4, Age: 8-9

Stikky Trees
Laurency Holt Books
This clever introduction to trees lives up to the philosophy of “teach less, better.” Authors propose a four-step approach to becoming familiar with 15 trees commonly found in the United States. Actually, the “steps” are learning sequences, each dedicated to a specific topic and each building upon what was learned in the previous sequence. This book is fun for both children and adults. View an interactive demo on the publisher’s website.



Do you have a favorite book about trees?

Teachers, tell us what you use in your classroom.
Parents, tell us how you have introduced your children to trees.
Fellow Plant Enthusiasts, which helpful books about trees do you have in your library?

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What is a gymnosperm?

The word gymnosperm literally means “naked seed” (gymno=naked, sperm=seed). Gymnosperms have their seeds exposed unlike flowering plants, the angiosperms, which have their seeds enclosed in an ovary (i.e., fruit). The word angiosperm derives its meaning from angio=vessel, sperm=seed.

Pine trees are the most often cited example of a gymnosperm. But what about the other gymnosperms? How do we know when we see one? Do all gymnosperms have cones?

These questions and many others are answered in Gymnosperms of the United States & Canada. This user-friendly reference was written by Dr. Elray S. Nixon and illustrated by Bruce Lyndon Cunningham.

Lavishly illustrated, this guide is a welcome balance of botanical terminology and descriptive illustrations. Dr. Nixon’s jargon-free text is supported by Bruce’s informative illustrations. Dr. Nixon begins his book explaining what gymnosperms are and where they can be found. He then provides clear instruction on how to use identification keys and teaches readers how to begin thinking about cones, leaves, and bark — the three characteristics which are the focus of this book. Dr. Nixon focuses on these characters because they are observable throughout the year.

If you have used identification keys before, you are all too familiar with how easy it is to make a wrong turn while working through a dichotomous key. Fortunately in Gymnosperms of the United States & Canada, the likelihood of you going astray has been minimized by Bruce’s illustrations. If you ever doubt your progress working through any of the keys, all you need to do is refer to one of the 115 botanical plates Bruce created. Each plate includes a sketch of a mature plant and illustrations of leaves, cones, arils, seeds, and bark. A range map showing the distribution of each species is also included.

Dr. Nixon and Bruce describe 115 species of gymnosperms growing in coniferous gymnosperm forests, gymnosperm foothill (pinyon-juniper) forests, and gymnosperm (Ephedra) shrubland. The divisions, families and genera featured in this book are:

DIVISION: Cycadophyta
Family: Zamiazeae (Sago Palm Family)
    Genus: Zamia

DIVISION: Ginkophyta
Family: Ginkoaceae (Maidenhair Tree or Ginkgo Family)
    Genus: Ginkgo

DIVISION: Gnetophyta
Family: Ephedraceae (Ephedra Family)
    Genus: Ephedra

DIVISION: Pinophyta
Family: Taxaceae (Yew Family)
    Genus: Taxus
    Genus: Torreya

Family: Pinaceae (Pine Family)
    Genus: Pinus
    Genus: Larix
    Genus: Picea
    Genus: Tsuga
    Genus: Abies
    Genus: Pseudotsuga
Family: Cupressaceae (Redwood or Cypress Family)
    Genus: Taxodium
    Genus: Sequoia
    Genus: Sequoiadendron
    Genus: Juniperus
    Genus: Callistris
    Genus: Cupressus
    Genus: Chamaecyparis
    Genus: Thuja
    Genus: Calocedrus

Abundant illustrations, easy-to-follow keys, and clear descriptive text make this guide a great resource to use when learning about the gymnosperms in your area. This guide also serves as a gentle introduction to dichotomous keys. If you have avoided plant keys because of the botanical terminology they contain, you might want to try the keys in this book. Dr. Nixon provides concise definitions to the botanical terms you need to know and Bruce provides an illustration for each term. This all-inclusive resource is sure to be a welcome companion on your next trip to your local forest or national park.



Learn How Bruce Creates Illustrations for Field Guides

Join us for Ask The Artist with Bruce Lyndon Cunningham on Monday December 13, 2010 from 12:00 PM – 1:00 PM (PST). Bruce has illustrated many field guides and during this live online event, he will discuss how he worked with Dr. Nixon to create the illustrations for this new book. This event is FREE. To join in on this conversation, register here. Event Closed


Gymnosperms of the United States & Canada
can be purchased at www.forester-artist.com.

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Unique gifts and holiday specials at ArtPlantae Books.

Holiday specials help you save on shipping expenses now and on new purchases in 2011. Read the details below.

NEW! Add a Stocking Stuffer, Receive Free Shipping

Add a qualifying stocking stuffer to your order and receive FREE shipping. Orders must be comprised of one item and one qualifying stocking stuffer. All orders are shipped via Media Mail to U.S. addresses only. Adjustments will be made when orders are processed. Please remember that shipping time for Media Mail is 3-10 days, longer to Alaska and Hawaii.

Choose from these qualifying stocking stuffer:

  • The Pronouncing Dictionary of Plant Names – Three thousand plant names in a pocket guide. Learn how to pronounce each name! ($6.95)
  • Plant Notes / Bookmark Notes – Keep tidy notes with this bookmark-style organization system! ($4.99)
  • Clear Brush Holders – Sometimes everyday items make the best art tools. ($1.75)


NEW! Save 10% Off Each Item in Your Cart

Make any purchase at ArtPlantae Books before December 10, 2010 and save 10% off every item in your next purchase. Look for the savings code on your receipt. This offer applies to an online purchase between January 1, 2011 and February 28, 2011. When shopping for gifts online, please remember that shipping time for Media Mail is 3-10 days, longer to Alaska and Hawaii. This special offer cannot be combined with any other offer.

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ARTPLANTAE TODAY (APT): How long have you been a professional graphite artist?

DIANE CARDACI (DC):
I have been working professionally as a graphite artist for about 25 years. Having attended medical school in Italy for several years, it was a natural that my first professional jobs were medical illustrations. I then developed my portfolio to include natural science subjects such as animals and plants so that I could work in the field of natural science illustration. After the birth of my daughter, I developed an interest in portraiture and began accepting portrait commissions.



APT: Why have you chosen to work in graphite pencil? Why not watercolor, colored pencil, oil or some other color medium?

DC: Over the years I have worked with various color mediums as well. Since I am allergic to turpentine, I use water-soluble oils for color portrait commissions, and I like to use pastels for landscapes. For my earlier color illustration work I used colored pencils. But I have always had a fascination for using graphite pencils and find myself consistently returning to them. I love the sensitivity of pencils – when I draw with a pencil, I often feel as if I am “touching” the subject. I also love the simplicity of graphite pencils. Since I travel quite a bit, I can always have my “studio” in my pocket or bag.


APT: When you were working primarily as a natural science illustrator, what type of work did you do? (i.e., textbook illustrations, museum work, etc.)
.

DC: I have never been a “niche” artist and have always enjoyed working on a variety of subjects. Because of this, while freelancing as a scientific illustrator, my work included medical, animal and botanical illustrations. I worked mainly in publishing, for textbook companies and some newspapers and magazines. I also did some illustrations for the Museum of Natural History in New York City.


APT: You have authored three books and co-authored two books through Walter Foster Publishing, Inc. How did you become an author?

DC: Walter Foster Publishing had seen my work and contacted me about authoring the book Realistic Textures. Although I had never authored a book before, I was thrilled to take on the project. It was exciting to have the opportunity to share the skills I have developed using graphite pencils with people all over the world. It was a successful collaboration, so I was happy to author additional books with this publishing company.


APT: Tell us about your next book and how it differs from your other drawing books.

DC: I’ve just finished working on another book for Walter Foster called Shortcuts and Artists’ Secrets, scheduled to be released in Spring 2011. The nature of realistic pencil drawing is that it is a “slow” medium—it takes a lot of time and patience to do a detailed drawing. In this book I focus on some of the shortcuts that artists use to “speed” things up a bit. Some of the tips that I discuss are: creating a dark background quickly, using thumbnail sketches, and choosing the right pencils and papers to “make the job easier”.


APT: When in Italy for the summer, you study the work of the Old Masters. How does one study the work of the Old Masters? What can be learned from Old Master drawings?

DC: This is a topic that is very dear to my heart. When I first began attending art classes, I had a wise teacher who advised me to make a lifelong habit of copying drawings from the Old Masters. By copying their drawings, you begin to notice details of their artwork, and really appreciate the training and knowledge that these artists had. I have also made it a habit that whenever I am doing a drawing, to take a look at some old master drawings of the same type of subject, and study how they approached the subject. When I am Italy, I particularly love to go to the small towns and search out the churches and museums. There is such an amazing artistic heritage Italy, it’s as if art is in the air you breathe. I always recommend to art students that they go to museums whenever possible. Today we are lucky because many museums have websites, so it is possible to do “virtual museum visits” if there are no museums close by.


APT: In your books, you use different forms of graphite, in addition to the traditional wooden pencil. How can botanical illustrators use graphite powder, graphite washes, and carbon pencil to enhance their illustrations?

DC: I always recommend experimenting with different techniques to see what “feels right”. The three techniques that you mentioned are fun to experiment with and can be very useful for the botanical artist. I like to use graphite powder as a quick way of creating a base tone. For example, to create a dark tone for some leaves, it is very easy to use a stump to apply graphite powder to develop quickly a dark base tone. Graphite washes are created using water-soluble graphite or watercolor pencils. These create watercolor effects and can be used as a base tone as well. Carbon pencils are great if you need to create a very deep black tone—the nature of graphite is such that you can only get a dark gray, but never a deep black tone. The important thing to remember when using carbon pencils is that carbon pencils have a matte finish, while graphite has a shinier “finish”. So if you use both types in a drawing, you must use the carbon as a first layer, you cannot draw with a carbon pencil on top of graphite. Another thing to be aware of is that when you combine these two mediums, they will reflect the light differently in your drawing.


ASK THE ARTIST WITH DIANE CARDACI

We are all fortunate to be able to learn from Diane who is currently studying the work of the Old Masters in Italy. Do you have questions about the drawing process, the different forms of graphite, or the Old Masters? Send your questions to education@artplantae.com. Your questions will be forwarded to Diane and her replies to your questions will be posted later this month. Please submit your questions no later than September 19, 2010.

Submit your question today!



Updated 9/30/10: Diane Cardaci Answers Your Questions

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This month we will learn from graphite artist, author, and teacher, Diane Cardaci. Diane began her professional career as a natural science illustrator. She now focuses on portrait work and is a Signature member of the American Society of Portrait Artists. Diane has authored three books for Walter Foster Publishing, Inc. Two books are dedicated to rendering realistic forms and textures in graphite. Her most recent book, How to Draw from Photographs, is a handy reference about how to use reference photos to create detailed illustrations. Diane is also a co-author of two titles in Walter Foster’s Step-by-Step Studio Series. The books she co-authored are Drawing Concepts and Drawing Lifelike Subjects.

Today’s post will focus on the books Realistic Textures, How to Draw from Photographs, and Flowers & Botanicals, with a special emphasis on how botanical illustrators can benefit from these resources.

In Realistic Textures, Diane leads readers through a progression of exercises involving mark making and the creation of pencil washes using water-soluble graphite and smudging techniques. Diane’s demonstrations illustrate clearly that a pencil is more than a simple note-taking tool. While it may seem you’re playing around with pencil marks that will never be used on botanical subjects, Diane demonstrates otherwise when she shows artists how to apply tonal values and pencil marks to create form. Eight pages of Realistic Textures are dedicated to the creation of botanical textures. In this section, artists learn how Diane creates…

  • The hard surface and pattern of croton leaves
  • The glossy surface of holly leaves
  • The thickness and textured surface of cactus pads
  • The polished surface of an apple
  • The bumpy texture of orange peel
  • The achenes and shiny surface of a strawberry
  • The rough texture of a cantaloupe
  • The patterned surface of gourds

Of special interest to botanical illustrators is Diane’s eight-step demonstration in which she develops an illustration of a bellflower from line drawing to finished pencil painting. Illustrators will also find the sections about wildlife textures, landscape textures and animal textures helpful to their work.

In this book, Diane provides many helpful tips, exercises, and pencil drawings to demonstrate how digital cameras can assist artists with their drawings. Diane shows artists how to recognize distortion, how to create distortion intentionally in their photographs, and how to correct for distortion in a drawing. She also demonstrates how to set up a value scale and how to identify a subject’s core value. Instruction in composition, lighting, how to work with several photo references, and how to capture details is also provided.

In this book about our favorite subject, Diane explains how botanical illustrators can use different techniques to create texture and values. Botanical artists will learn about graphite powder, graphite washes, and carbon pencil — tools not normally discussed in a botanical art class. Artists will also learn the value of creating a reference collection of flowers, flower heads, stems, leaves, leaf attachments, and reproductive parts for each specimen before combining these elements into a single composition. Eleven projects are presented by Diane, each one bringing attention to a different aspect of drawing. The projects and the key skills learned in each are as follows:

  • Calla Lily – Blocking geometric shapes, the process of shading to create form
  • Tulip – Blocking shapes, working with ellipses
  • Hibiscus – Using graphite powder to create dark accents
  • Heliconia – How to translate color as a tone in graphite, use of water-soluble graphite pencils
  • Ornithogalum – How to approach drawing an inflorescence
  • Water Lily – Using horizontal strokes to depict flatness
  • Clematis – Drawing a vining plant & trellis
  • Hydrangea – Using texture to create the illusion of many small florets
  • Window Box Exercise – How to make plants a focal point in a scene
  • Sunflower – How to simplify a drawing
  • Mixed Media Exercise – Using ink washes and graphite

These titles are available at ArtPlantae Books.

Diane has so much more to teach us. Be sure to stop by on Monday!

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Billy Showell is known for her attention to detail and the wonderful step-by-step instruction she provides in her books. When Billy published Watercolor Flower Portraits and Watercolor Fruit & Vegetable Portraits, she created instructional DVDs to go with each book. Billy’s Watercolor Flower Portraits DVD and Watercolor Fruit & Vegetable Portraits DVD are now available at ArtPlantae Books.

In Watercolor Flower Portraits, Billy provides 120 minutes of instruction and demonstrates the watercolor techniques she uses to paint a tulip, an Arum Lily, and a Phalaenopsis orchid. She also provides tips about how to compose a painting.

In Watercolor Fruit & Vegetable Portraits, Billy demonstrates how to turn a sketch into a finished painting. See how to use strong colors to paint an apple, how to maintain light areas when painting red grapes, how to create form on a turnip, and how to add texture to bean pods.


NOTE:
*** These DVDs are in the PAL format and are viewable on a computer that reads DVDs. They are not viewable on a DVD player hooked up to a television set. ***


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© Robin Brickman. All rights reserved

When Robin Brickman graduated from Bennington College with a degree in graphic arts and botany, she began her career as a freelance illustrator of magazines, trade books and textbooks, medical illustrations, and even postage stamps. When she had children of her own, she turned her attention to children’s picture books and how they were illustrated. Little did she know that she was about to establish herself as an award-winning children’s book illustrator and respected paper artist.


What prompted you to start tinkering with paper? Is there a paper artist who inspired you?

I had been a professional illustrator for 15 years doing pen and ink illustrations and adding watercolor and pastels to my portfolio. I have always liked experimenting with different techniques, and became intrigued by cut paper artwork. Some cut paper artists do work for advertising, either white-on-white or in color, but as 2-Dimensional or flat collage. I studied these styles and thought about what I wanted to do in order to depict nature accurately. I wanted to blend the scientific accuracy I’m known for with color, cut, and sculpted paper. When I discovered I could cut and shape paper art, in the early 1990′s, it was a “Eureka” moment. Initially, I made polymer clay molds of holly leaves and used those molds to shape paper. The leaves were stylized and not accurate enough, so I decided to skip the molding step and just cut the leaves out of paper directly. Paper is a wonderful medium. Depending on how you cut it, expressive and beautiful results can occur. It was transformative for me to begin working this way and allowed me to tap into my drawing skills immediately and comfortably. Although some paper artists use X-ACTO® blades, I use ordinary household and embroidery scissors. My cutting method feels quite graceful and I can do it for long stretches of time. Cutting and painting the individual elements of a painting is more forgiving than conventional flat, or two-dimensional art. Sometimes people think I’ve given myself more work, but I think it’s easier. I never worry that I have to start over with an entire painting if I spill coffee on a chipmunk! Plus, it is easier to change my mind and to reposition the pieces of a painting. This is very liberating. I wanted to set myself apart and the discovery that I could create wonderful sculpted watercolor images marked the beginning of my career as a children’s book illustrator. Some people assume the wood and leaves in my books are real or found objects, but I made them out of painted paper. This work does not happen quickly, primarily because of the scientific research and accuracy needed in my work, not because it is cut paper. I should mention, however, there is an added expense in book production costs for photographing 3-dimensional art. The maximum depth of my paintings is about 3 inches, and this makes them easier to photograph and frame.

Swallows In the Birdhouse was the first book I illustrated in cut paper. The production issues with that book were difficult for the publisher because programs such as Photoshop were brand new at that time. With the next book, A Log’s Life, I learned a lot about how to create the art so that it would be photographed and reproduced to its best advantage. Now there are a number of artists who do cut paper or dimensional art for books, but I believe that I am the only person to work with as much realism and who is creating from paint on paper, only, in my paintings.


How do you and an author work together? Do authors tell you what they have in mind for each page or do you design the art after reading their story?

Children’s picture books are created in different ways. Sometimes, an author and an artist present a collaborative package to a publisher. Other times, an author wants to use his own art or photos. In that case, publishers might tell an author that another artist’s work would be better for the book. For most books the author submits a story to a publisher and the publisher finds an artist for that book. I have been paired with authors by the different publishers I’ve worked with. A publisher might give an author input into the art stage of a book, but that is rare. Book illustrators usually don’t meet the authors of their books. In fact, publishers often keep authors and illustrators apart. My job as an illustrator is to take the author’s manuscript and to create the best possible art for the book. I met Wendy Pfeffer after A Log’s Life won the John Burrough’s Award. An editor at Simon & Schuster paired me with her manuscript. Charlesbridge matched me with Sneed Collard, and I have illustrated three of his picture books: Beaks!, One Night In the Coral Sea, and Wings. I met him after finishing the art for One Night In the Coral Sea. I had help from Stephen Swinburne (author of Swallows In the Birdhouse) for his book. Both Sneed and Stephen provided reference material that helped me create illustrations for their books. Collaborating from the beginning with an author can be very fruitful, though, and I hope to do that with a new author, later this year.


Do you sketch your scenes in pencil first? Do you paint an entire scene before constructing your 3-dimensional scenes?

I sketch out a painting with pencils and tracing paper, after completing the research that I need for accuracy and inspiration. I plan according to a book’s set format, working with galleys or the text after it has been typeset. Sometimes the page breaks are predetermined by the book’s format, as in Beaks! and Wings. Other times, it is my job to pace the text and the art of a book. (Note: A galley is an unedited manuscript)

I start by painting the featured animals and plants, or those that are in the front of a scene. Other times I might start by painting the background of a painting. It has taken me cumulative experience to realize what I want to portray in a scene and how to place things in a painting. The different levels might all be in focus, or some parts might be out of focus as the scene goes back in space. In other words, elements in the front are clear and defined but background elements may be more stylized or fuzzy. This is because a detailed background may not help a painting. Creating these transitions has become easier for me than at the beginning of this technique, but there is still a lot of back and forth. As you can see in the book Wings, the milkweed painting is an example of combining flat two-dimensional art with features of cut paper. Plus, after months of working dimensionally, it was nice to do some elements on the flat surface of the paper!

For stand-alone paintings or commissions, I talk to the client about what they have in mind. For example, one client wanted to commission a painting that related to her husband’s interest in fly fishing. After several conversations it became clear that the Colorado landscape surrounding the client’s second home was important to them, so I included that into the design of the painting.


Which elements of a scene are usually added as a painted background? In other words, are there elements that are always painted?

When I started to develop this type of art, I tried to create everything in cut paper. However I realized I preferred more painterly backgrounds and that it saved me time to make the background a wash of color. As I am cutting out different elements, though, I keep every scrap of paper that is made. I have used these bits of paper, often as small additions, to make a painting more interesting. Keeping all of these scraps both saves me time and adds to the complexity of my work. It is like using herbs and spices when I am making soup!


What other materials do you use in addition to paper?

I use clear or frosted mylar for insect wings. I also use paint mixed with glue (e.g., for eyes) and occasionally I use hair. Hair was used for spider webs and animal whiskers in A Log’s Life. In the book Wings, the dragonfly and the membranous wings of the lady bird beetle were created by inscribing lines into clear film. I then rubbed paint into the indentations. The veins on the termite wings were created by gently cutting into the surface of frosted mylar.


How do you create nature’s details out of paper?

To create an element like an insect, I deconstruct it into simple forms, such as legs, body parts, and wings. Then I reassemble the parts I’ve made. This deconstruction and re-construction step is often hard for younger students to understand, but it is second nature to me. When I create flowers, I cut a flower’s overall shape, like an oval or a sphere. Then I cut the individual petals, keeping them connected at the center of the oval. I will sometimes indent petals or leaves with my fingernail. The paint is darker inside those impressions. The center of some flowers are created by placing bits of paper pulp and painted glue onto a small disk. This disk is then added on top of the petals. By adding painted features I build up what I want to create. Feathers are made by cutting paper edges with scissors, like fringe. The feathers of a bird’s wings are layers of paper that are glued like shingles on a roof. The face of the King Vulture in Wings, was made using more than just cut and painted paper. The wattle is paint and pulp that was placed onto the piece of orange paper serving as the beak. The texture and hairs of the face were created in pen and ink, and the fringe on the top of the vulture’s head is composed of slender pieces of black paper that were glued to the top of the vulture’s head. The logs and dirt in A Log’s Life are other examples of detail. Soil scenes are created with paper pulp, bits of cut paper, paint, and glue. I push down on the pulp to make an uneven surface. I also use paint and additional scraps of paper to create a textured appearance. When people ask me what I do, I tell them I’m a painter. It is my combination of these materials that creates my paintings. If I get backed into a corner, artistically, I will experiment with my art supplies to figure out a solution. I discovered I could use glue to create a water drop on a log, and that hair makes a good spider web or chipmunk whiskers. Even so, the bat wings, in Wings, were difficult to create. The bats in flight required wings that are more transparent and membranous than the bats that are hanging upside down.


Are the raised forms (like tree trunks and branches) paper maché?

No, there isn’t any paper maché. The curves of tree trunks and branches are painted paper, reinforced on the backside with glue and additional paper. Sometimes I use craft wire to support slender branches or twigs. I also make paper pillars to prop things up, but mostly I can use paper pulp and glue to support elements from behind. I have studied bookmaking and paper making, so I already had a lot of book art skills to draw upon.


How did you begin the program you teach at schools? What do you teach?

I started to teach my workshops when my own sons were in elementary school. I was asked to talk about being a book illustrator because it’s an unusual profession. I realized that I liked the experience and I discovered that I had something unique to share — I could bring an art and science component to kids. I also wanted to have a message, namely the science of what I illustrate. As a parent, I knew that young children would get bored by a long presentation. So I created a workshop format where I show photos and movies of what I do as an artist, and then say, “Now it’s your turn!”

Over the past ten years, I developed several workshops based on my book illustrations. The most popular and successful workshop is the creation of a forest or ocean habitat mural. Even the youngest students practice my cut, color, and sculpted paper techniques with these programs. Sometimes the workshops supplement the curriculum at a school but my books are always the starting point. Other workshops are take-home projects, but the community murals stay at the hosting school and they include everyone’s art work in one scene. I like going to schools to demonstrate what I do and to show all ages they can do the same thing on their own using common materials such a paper, glue, paint, and scissors. The larger workshops for younger students use inexpensive paper, crayons, and scissors. I teach watercolor painting and more sophisticated techniques in smaller groups teenagers or adults, and when there is a longer time period available. I present workshops across the country and love doing it.


What do you do with the original illustrations you create for books? Do you exhibit the originals regularly?

I try to. It has been almost 20 years since I began working in my sculpted watercolor technique. A lot of the art from my books has been shown at galleries and in museums. Many of the paintings are in public and private collections, but I own a number of paintings for future showing options and to pass on to my family. I have been honored with three solo shows, one was at the Bennington Museum and two were at the Berkshire Museum. I think it is important for me to show the original paintings because they make quite an impression over the photographed images in the books. I have had several galleries representing me over the years. Currently, I have work in two shows and the rest of the paintings are at home. In addition to art for books, I do commission work for private individuals. Those paintings have been very gratifying to create and I welcome the opportunities to do them. A private commission is a luxury purchase for people, so I am grateful to the collectors of my work.



About Robin Brickman

Robin graduated from Bennington College with a B.A. in graphic arts and botany. She has been a freelance artist since 1976 and a workshop leader in schools since 1999. She has illustrated twenty books, including the following award-winning titles: Wings, One Night In The Coral Sea, A Log’s Life, BEAKS!, and Starfish. Robin has had her work shown in several exhibitions at museums and galleries such as the New York State Museum, the Norma Rockwell Museum, the Berkshire Museum, the Hunt Institute for Botanical Documentation, and the Smithsonian Institution. Robin is a member of the Guild of Natural Science Illustrators, the Western Massachusetts Illustrators Guild and the Society of Children’s Book Writers and Illustrators. In addition to creating detailed paper sculptures, Robin works in pen and ink, graphite, colored pencil, watercolor, airbrush, and pastel dust.


Take a Look!


  • See Robin’s painting, “Gambian Epauletted Fruit Bat” in the Image Gallery of the Focus On Nature XI website. New York State Museum (April 29 – October 31, 2010)
  • View Robin’s painting in the Vernal Pools mixed media exhibition at the Atrium Art Gallery at Lewiston-Auburn College in Maine (April 23 – June 30, 2010)
  • Books illustrated by Robin Brickman


A Log’s Life
is available at your independent bookstore.

A Log's Life

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